Goodbye Argentina, hello Chile

So far we have been writing about all the special places we were visiting in Argentina. Now I would like to say a few words about the "in-between" places, like when we were traveling long distances by bus between these special places.

Patagonia seen through the window of a speeding bus leaves a very deep, unforgettable impression. I finally realized it on our last bus ride in Argentinian Patagonia, the six hour trip from El Calafate to Puerto Natales in Chile.

You ride for hundreds of kilometers on mostly well paved roads, with very few intersections, very few cars, through a mostly empty desert-like countryside. The terrain is most often flat or gently rolling, with occasional views of high, snow covered mountains in the distance. The dominant colours are brown and yellow, with green shades of the low vegetation and low-lying, wind-swept shrubs. Trees are rare. All along the road, for hundreds of kilometers on both sides, runs a wood-and-wire fence with an occasional gate guarding a dirt road going nowhere you can see. These fences run along every road, big and small. The fences are not high, and they certainly don't stop the guanacos (wild lamas) that hop over them so gracefully. What are they for?

We eventually understood that these are sheep fences of the haciendas that cover most of Patagonia's land. The hacienda consists of a small group of buildings, only sometimes visible from the road, a few trees around the house, and huge tracts of fenced land with some dry vegetation. Most are far from the power grid - they generate their own electricity from gas, and often hours away from the nearest small town. It is hard to imagine the life of a family in this isolated environment. No wonder that many of the haciendas are abandoned.
Since everything looks empty, you can only guess the hacienda is abandoned by the broken roof, doors and windows of its house. Even on the active ones you don't see many sheep, they are spread out throughout the vast spaces needed to feed them. It appears that what was once a huge economic activity is now in decline. Still, the patagonian lamb is served in every restaurant, and it is by far the best lamb I (Simon) have ever had. You can see it through restaurant windows: a few complete lambs cut open, spread out upright on a spit and grilling for hours until so tender the meat melts in your mouth (apologies to vegetarians). I'll post a picture when I take one.

And we cannot leave Argentina without saying a few words about the people. In one word, they are delightful. Saying hello to passing strangers with a big smile that looks like it's coming from the heart. Always ready to talk to you and to help. In stores and restaurants, no-nonsense service with a greeting and a smile (not fake), answer all your questions whether you buy or not, nobody tried to take advantage of us. Also the children are treated respectfully, and are usually polite and with good manners. We were also impressed by the artisans doing handicrafts in small shops, small markets and on the street. Many very creative and talented. Most are aboriginals and use native themes and materials in their art. Because of our attempt to minimize our baggage, we didn't collect souvenirs, just memories.

Our first day in Chile was spent preparing for the trek but as so often happens a laid back day turns into something memorable. Walking along the port in Puerto Natales gave us a feel for the strong winds to come.

The dock was empty except for a few fishing boats constantly turning in the wind. On the dock we came across an old bus with menus in the window.

The inside was lined with counters and the back was a tiny kitchen. As we waited for our lunch we had a great view and were gently rocked by the winds. Our lunch of grilled fish (conger, a Chilean eel, very tasty) on a plate size roll layered with tomatoes, lettuce and a mayonnaise sauce was one of the top 10 meals of the trip. The owner knows how to live. It is open only on Mondays from 7:30 AM to 2:00 AM, when the trucks arrive, and the rest of the time he fishes and enjoys life.

As a bonus to our faithful readers, here are pictures showing typical houses in Puerto Natales. Note the one with a monkey puzzle tree in front (remember?)