Chiloe Island - the last two days of our adventure

Just Hiking in the Rain:

We wake to our first overcast Chiloe day. Our hosts suggest that there may be some slight afternoon showers. We would later learn that ¨ slight showers¨ on Chiloe is relative to the usual tumultuous downpours that regularly batter its Pacific coast. So although we had come prepared, we decide to leave our serious rain gear behind for our day-long hike. (A big mistake) Eduardo arranges a water taxi at our dock to take us down close to the Pacific mouth of the Chepu River. On the way, the driver slows down and points out to us the different birds.

The clouds ominously darken as we reach land. Our starting point is a remote section of the Sendero de Chile, a Chilean dream to a have a continuous hiking trail spanning the country. We quickly reach the ocean and start crossing a 8km bay. Like our bike ride across Cocotue Bay, the beach is completely deserted except for the abundant sea life left by the receding tides, and the birds that feast on a soggy smorgasbord.

Geezers feasting on seaweed

Birds eating seaweed

A sea lion close to shore swims along with us, sharing a mutual curiosity. Then out of the mist we see a giant, beached steel hull. We would learn later that the ship was part of an unwelcomed Pilipino flotilla that had come to harvest local trees but the native sea gods had crashed the boat - but that is another story for another time.

As we leave the beach, the rain, which we had beaten back, decides it is time. We close our rain jackets and pull our hoods up, while Annice and Simon don their Nepalese ponchos. So far; so good. The trail begins to follow the area’s well-used cow trails. We carefully side-step their large aromatic,textured markers. We soon meet head-on herds of wary bovines. As a very large bull becomes quite displeased with our presence, Esther carefully removes the red towel tangling from her backpack.
We survive the cows as the trail heads deep into the rainforest that dominates the coast. Trails are now muddy, steep and slippery. The mud and cow dung become one raging confluence. Our previous careful dance of sidestepping it gives way to just hanging-on. We are amazed that cows easily negotiate this treacherous landscape.


Each time the trail leaves the relative protection of the trees, the full force of the Pacific rainstorm lashes out. We are utterly drenched but, in spite of the cold and wet, the beauty, solitude, and challenge we face keep us cheerfully moving on. We have a delicious and dry lunch, and by mid-afternoon return to meet our water taxi.
 Arriving back at our eco-camp, our hosts stoke the fireplace and get us dry and fed. We felt like superheroes!

A Magical Predawn Ride: A unique tradition of the eco-camp is an invitation to kayak the Chepu river before dawn. The night before, Fernando prepares us for the next morning ride: lectures about what to do, fitting us with cold weather gear, and most importantly how to mentally approach this eccentric trip. That night, the full force of a Pacific storm rages over us - our cabins shake with fierce winds and torrential rains.

At 6am when we rise, the storm seems to have moved on. We don our wet suits and by 6:15am, in total darkness, we are lovingly launched into the river.

A large, black cloud hangs over the sunken forest in front of us. Just as we turn our kayaks upriver, a shooting star streams through the clouds, leaving a luminous glow over our kayaks.








A bright night sky to our right shows us the way to Fernando’s Station A – where, in silence, we begin to attend to the awaking river. We move to Station B and we watch a dream-like sunrise dance on the waters around us.

We move up river and a perfect rainbow, fitted to the river, appears just for us. Then within seconds, it begins to pour, followed weirdly by hail. We turn our backs to the wind and soon, brilliant sunshine chases the hail away. We head back and just before we reach shore another rainbow appears followed by another downpour. A smiling Fernando is waiting to pull us ashore. We rush back to the eco-camp’s cozy lounge-dining room. The fireplace is fully stoked. Hot coffee and a hearty breakfast await us as we reflect on our strangely wondrous, mystical ride.

Eating with a view

With Amory and Fernando on the terrace

We all had an amazing 5 days. The biking, kayaking and hiking were all challenging with magnificent vistas-just the way we like them. The food was delicious, the accommodations spectacular and the people wonderful. Fernando's and Amory's place was truly paradise on earth. They were so caring and marvellous to us. Eduardo was a great guide and companion. He was delightful to be with and looked after all our needs.The trip was one of the highlights of our South American tour.

Our cabanas