a comment about how an error can be to one's advantage. We had paid for 5 nights in refugios and they had only reserved 4 nights. The refugio we were supposed to stay in was full. I had spent a lot of time on these arrangements and was very annoyed. We were offered another option, a refugio defined as "rustic". Fortunately we had no choice. The accommodations were great, we had a large room with 2 sets of bunk beds, a shelf and hook for each bed, which for a refugio is luxury. It turned out to be a great destination for a rainy day, and enabled us to kayak around the Grey glacier.
And now to the cruise:
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| The Evangelistas in Puerto Natales |
We board at 10pm strolling through the tranquility of PN's virtually abandoned port. The ship delivers PN's weekly supplies so while we sleep mammoth trucks rumble in and out the ship's massive double hull.
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| Puerto Natales from Evangelistas |
To our surprise we learn, on board, that the Chilean port of PN and the great Chilean Torres del Paine park are actually on the eastern slopes of the Andes - what is generally considered Argentinean territory. A maze of narrow channels (some as small as 70m) connects PN westward to the Chilean Pacific archipelago.
For the next 4 days our boat will snake through this almost impossible labyrinth of islands. The snow-peaked Andean heights stand majestic to our right, towering tall over our passage. After having spent the last week slowly and often arduously hiking Torres del Paine roughly 20km a day, we are now sitting comfortably watching miles of these Andean wonders wash by us at 600km a day. Indeed, because the quiet waters of the Chilean fjords removes all sense of our own movement, the vistas play as a slow-motion picture show before us. We no longer face the daily challenge of shuffling off to the next refugio with loaded packs - our meals are now scheduled and abundant. It's a very different and surprisingly pleasant way of imbibing the Andean experience. Do boats really beat boots? Fortunately, we don't have to choose and we are grateful for that.
2. First Day: On the first morning, the captain wakes us at 7:00am to witness the boat's passage through the challenging, serpentine Pasokirke channels. The boat twists and turns as it negotiates the narrow passes between the Andean peaks. The early morning light shimmers of the snow capped mountains, enveloping us its warm glow.
Sea lions dart like speeding torpedoes, escaping our on-coming boat. (The next day, in more open bays, sea lions perform synchronized jumping and diving drills in the waters around us.) See the 2 seals streaking through the sunset-filled waters.
Later in the day, the captain makes a detour to take us to the edge of the a nearby Pacific glacier. Like a well-trained hypnotist, the glacier pulls passengers from their cabins to gather at its edge, while it continuously calves ice into the Pacific.
After supper, we rush to see our first Pacific sunset. The sun slowly descends over the low foothills to the west. This stunted topology opens a wide horizon, and because we are so close to the almost endless daylight of the Antarctic, the sun languishes bright just below the horizon. Glorious blends of rich red, pink, and orange light dance off the boat's wake and the low hanging clouds. As we stand seduced by nature's slowly changing show, we are intermittently surprised by rays of brilliant light that suddenly stream through breaks in western islands. 
two Pisco Sours. A string of out-of-tune, alpha males quickly volunteer, until Esther jumps up. She rocks the boat with a soulful performance of Janice Joplin's "Me and Booby McGee". Our Pisco-Soured audience rises in appreciation and everyone joyfully joins the chorus. Esther is now affectionately saluted on the boat as Janice.
4. Day 2, The Gravol Dance: We wake to another calm, sunny day. The captain soon warns us that around noon we will leave the quiet, sheltered archipelago waters and enter the open Pacific. We are to be at the mercy of the surging seas for about 12 hours. We have come well prepared with Annice supervising our prophylactic Gravol diet. It's a hot, sunny afternoon. There are very few outside chairs on our spartan transport so passengers are sprawled every which way, clinging to every inch of open deck. Meanwhile, we diligently keep our eyes on the still horizon to keep our sea sickness at bay.
Late afternoon, the captain calls us port-side to see a passing whale. On cue, its plume showers the waters near us. In a glittering display, it flashes its enormous tail in the sunlight and dives deep from our sight. We later learn that Blue Whales weigh up to 100 tons; their hearts are the size of a baby elephant, pumping 3000 liters of blood with every beat. We return to wait out our remaining few hours of rocking and rolling. After supper, the now open western seas provide a new sunset spectacle. The entire horizon is flooded with dazzling light. In the cool evening breeze we find a "front row" bench and bathe in the light and stillness of the night sky. 5. Last Full Day: The now familiar bright sunrise greets us once more for this last day. We are told that our passage through the open sea was one of the calmest on record. Today dolphins entertain as the playfully dance around the boat.
About the Patagonia sky: probably the most beautiful sky we´ve ever seen, always with some clouds to make it dramatic. For example:A word about the ship. It is a ferry complete with cargo and passengers cars. The food is above average cafeteria cuisine with plenty of fresh fruit but no sweets. This is a good thing considering the cabins are small and the beds narrow. The dinning room itself is similar to any found in most high schools.. This is not a cruise ship with luxury lounges. There is a bar with limited comfortable seating and the top deck lined with park benches. Our fellow passengers are a collection of pack packers and active travelers.
And now for something completely different. With way too much free time, our female members soon found themelves dancing and singing from stern to bow, from port to starboard. So by popular demand we bring you one of their more inspired moments. Feel free to join the chorus. We are told that more is coming so stay tuned.
And here are some bonus pictures to share our experiences with our families and friends who we miss, even as we enjoy every moment of this journey.
The geezers´ shadows on the water
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