San Pedro de Atacama
Early Thursday morning we fly from the lush Pacific coastal mountains to the Chilean high altitude deserts. A little north of the Santiago, the Andean range turns reddish brown, with vast, treeless flat land between the now sparse peaks. Enormous open pit mines are visible 30,000 feet below. With this geographical change, Chile's wealth also changes from fruits and vegetables to minerals, especially copper and nitrates.
We land at Calama and bus to San Pedro de Atacama, one hour north over boundless stone deserts. Just before entering San Pedro we see the sculptured landscape that has transformed San Pedro from a sleepy desert oasis into a backpacker's paradise. San Pedro resembles a 19th century western frontier town; small adobe shacks on narrow, dusty, wind blown streets; crammed with twenty-something migrating backpackers. Every store is a conglomertion of money exchange, adventure touring, and bike rentals. Pringles and Escudo beer seem to dominate the backpack's diet.
We spend the next three days mountain biking through the exotic landscapes that millions of years of wind and rain have moulded into astonishing vast, open-air, masterpieces, best captured in pictures, not words – enjoy Simon's photographic gems - the most impressive of which is the great wall in Valle de la Luna at sunset. We arrive by bike at the moon-like valley as the sun hovers low in the sky.
The enormous stone walls reflect a curious, reddish, luminous light over the valley. |
We bike up a steep hill, with the setting sun in our eyes. Suddenly human-like silhouettes, appear from the crest of this desolate hill, silently walking towards us. In the sun's glare, these blackened figures of all shapes and sizes appear as zombies from the 'Night of Leaving Dead'. With trepidation, we pick-up our pace to pass them quickly. Over the summit, we spot the tour bus that had deposited our bike-eating spooks. Relieved, we dismount to enjoy nature's brilliant spectacle.
Because of San Pedro's famously clear skies and high altitude, the area is home to the world's second largest scientific project, ALMA, after CERN's Large Hadron Collider. When completed it will consist of 66 radio telescopes synchronized within one millionth of a millionth of a second to produce the equivalent of a 14,000 metres wide telescope.
We decide to take a layman's astronomy tour. We leave at 10pm to a remote site just out of town. As we approach, the bus lights are extinguished and we are guided by landing-strip lights to the darkened observatory.
A glorious, bright sky opens above us. With a powerful laser pointer that seems to reach far into the universe our guide describes the night sky's stars and planets; and how our ancestors used and fretted over their movement. We then move to a garden of 11 optical telescopes pointing to the stellar highlights above. Through one, we see Saturn, its ring and moons astonish us. Others peer deep inside the Milky-way and distant constellations. After a welcomed hot chocolate, we leave, enriched and inspired by the unfathomable distances and beauty that surround us every night. It has now become our new custom to wander every evening from the artificial light to rediscover the gifts above us.
Our Bolivian High Altitude Adventure
On the 4500 m. plateau, with peaks over 6000 m. |
We quickly discover another minor side effect – the high cost of Diamox consumption in 3rd world countries where any visit to the facilities involves a monetary exchange. On the first night, in our primitive adobe hostel, full of twenty-something-olds, Annice yells out to Esther, 'Don't forget to take the pill!', puzzling our young co-adventurers. Our Diamox dilemma ended quickly. On tour 3rd night, the hostel's one and only bathroom is located across a dark, rock-strewn, dirt lane-way. We look at each other and instantly ditch the Diamox.
The Bolivian Desert
Snow-covered smoking volcano |
Geezers and geyzers |
Un flamenco |
Muchos flamencos |
Vicunas |
Vicunas belong to the camelid family. They are wild ones, cannot be domesticated, and so are guanacos which you may remeber we met in Peninsula Valdes and Torres del Paine.
The llamas are domesticated cousins, but herds roam freely in the desert, decorated with colour ribbons to identify the owner. The main thing the owners do for them is use them as pack animals, shear their wool, and slaughter them for meat, which apparently is very tasty (we didn't try it).
Simon helping a baby llama |
Quinoa grows in the desert with no irrigation |
At times, the distant landscape suddenly turns bright green, yellow and white – fields of ripening quinoa spring from the desert dirt.
One of the desert highlights was visiting the famous salt flat, The Salar near Uyuni, which I talk about separately. The rest is best understood through Simon's pictures.
Visitor flags at the salar. Note the central one |
Salty geezers |
Salt hotel. Warning self explanatory |
Tourism ... |
The two main industries of the salt desert. The most lucrative one however is not in the pictures. It is lithium, extracted from the salt.
... and salt |
Watch for crossing llamas... |
I warned you! |
The adobe houses have either collapsed into piles of discarded rubble or are abandoned half-built.
Rock holding the corrugated metal roof |
The Salar near Uyuni (or will Bolivia become the Saudi Arabia of the 21st century?)
Mountains floating on the salt desert |
The hostess in our hostel |
On our return drive to Chile, we spot Chilean soldiers digging in the dirt near the Bolivian border. We learn that they are looking for land mines leftover from their 1879 war with Bolivia. In the war, Bolivia lost the nitrate, copper-rich areas that are now booming in northern Chile as well as its access to the sea, impoverishing the Bolivians for the last 150 years. During the First World War, British access to Chilean nitrates (key ingredient of early 20th century bombs) was a major contribution to its success.
Leaving the North:
After 10 days in the dry, harsh northern deserts we head back south to the seaside city of Valparaiso - Valley of Paradise - about 100km east of Santiago. It's a major port dating back to the Spanish colonization in the 1500's, and where ships of gold dreamers would rest on the way to the California gold rush in the mid 1800's. Stay tuned as we spend 4 days exploring this crazy, boom and bust city built on 44 hills.
1 comments:
Good text, it made me laugh!
Enjoy the warmth over there, there is a snowstorm coming this week!
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